Slow Sync Flash.

 

Worked out how to slow the shutter speed down and track the athlete(didn't know it was called panning). Then I added the flash to it and come up with this. Really liked the result and only recently see this technique has a name also; that is 'slow sync flash '.

Have just searched the net after writing here about it and there are some spectacular examples out there. This is reasonably technical but produces amazing action results(usually used where the light is low).

Would prefer a darker background in the above image, but it will do for now as an example.

Also have only now(5/2/08) sorted the camera settings to do it properly. The above image was obtained using a flash and somehow I managed to slow the shutter speed down at the same time. So there looks to be more than one way the nikon d200 can be set to get the above 'slow sync flash' effect.

This technique is very effective in low light so for sport action it would need to be quite overcast, to get dramatic effects.

A note to the above is to be aware of effects flash can have on startling the subject, so I use it side on only when close up to athletes. Front on may not be very well appreciated. The above is side on enough.

And here is a link outside of 'TriathlonShots' with 13 great examples of photos using 'slow sync flash'.

 

 

 

Framing.

 

Framing an image can be used to focus the viewer onto the subject. It is also to cut out unwanted background which often distracts from the image.

Here are three images from this site that have used framing to various degrees. My favourite is the one looking through the trees, but the bike tube one is also very good.

The other image is the only one taken by myself and used the effects of a fisheye lens as well. Was happy with it and wasn't aware of this technique when trying to get the framing effect.

This is a technique even novice photographers can copy and to me the results are some of the most spectacular. Good luck out there and sure you will surprise yourselves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black and White.

 

The area of black and white photography was my first real photography experience way back in 1987, as a weekly option at highschool.

It was very rewarding and interesting going through the whole development process. A skill I would use many times again when developing X-rays, but thats another story.

Today with digital images it is as easy as clicking a button.

Black and white photography is very useful for portraits or focusing in on a subject.

It can also help cover up colours that have not quite turned out right.

 

 

 

The colourful image(left) has the background colours clashing with the clothing of the athlete and as such it is quite distracting. In the black and white image the athlete is clearer and it is easier to look at.

There are many more uses for black and white and it makes for a good mix in the photo displays.

The displays in the events page photo selections have been edited by myself and the tendency is towards bright colours, so some more black and white is planned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abstract photos.

 

All three images below I have described as abstract, because they take some imagination to see the main effect.

All the photos were taken using the same technique. That is the camera was set on slow shutter priority, and zoomed in when the shutter release button was pressed. The trick is holding the camera steady while doing this.

The above technique has been around as long as zoom lenses no doubt.

The first practise shot was focused on the Swiss flag.

 

Typically the photographer wants to have a central subject(eg. cyclist), in focus and everything else 'expanding out' from the center point.

The image below was the one I was most happy with.

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Below is another example which I keep going back to because the colours interest me and there are some flashes of the cyclists. A bit more clarity of the cyclists would make it better though.

 

 

 

 

Cropping photos.

 

Cropping photos is one of the essential elements in post processsing of images. Cropping digital images has been made easy by the many software programmes available today.

I have used three different programmes to crop images and do other work on the original files. All three have been very easy to use, but I prefer the software that comes with the camera to do the initial cropping.

Before cropping any image I consider whether straightening the image will improve it. Next I think about what distractions in the image are taking away from the overall quality. Distractions can even be a brightly coloured object that drags the eye away from the main subject.

The right proportions of sky, subject and foreground is always worth considering and the rule of thirds usually comes into play.

So below is an example of cropping to a very major extent, but assuming the original photo is good quality and a large file, then alot can be done.

The image directly below has been cropped from the image above. More images from this day can be seen on theWakiki surf page.

 

Another example where cropping is useful is to get rid of distraction from an image as below.

The red car takes the eye away from the athlete. Ideally the photographer positions themselves to avoid distracting backgrounds but it isn't always possible.

 

 

 

 

Using shutter priority.

 

These photos were achieved by using shutter priority on your camera at setting it to something like 1/40 sec as is the case with this photo. The camera is swung in the direction the subject is moving in.

It may take some practise but should be worthwhile. Once was what a distracting bright background can be turned into a colourful blur.

Assuming the subject(in this case a runner), is in focus, the end result should be more emphasise on the focused area. also the slowing of the shutter speed gives the image the feeling of movement which can be seen in the runners legs and arms especially.

The technique described above is often called 'panning'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prosumer cameras.

 

'Prosumer' stands for professional consumer and in this blog is referring to the likes of the nikon d50 and fujifilms permanent zoom lens cameras.

I got an old friend to read over my first blog entry on this site. He has recently brought a 'prosumer' camera and is aiming to photograph some wildlife. Am not that knowledgeable about the 'prosumer' cameras but there is a wide variety of them and some even have up to 12 x zoom and produce good quality images. At least the images shown to me taken with such a camera of wild deer were excellent. The article associated with these images explained that the images were taken from 10m's and 30m's which is also pretty good going considering deer have incredible senses for detecting danger.

If you are prepared to put a bit of thinking into it or take the time, you can get very close and the resulting images will be better. Some wildlife aren't all that friendly if you get too close so it is best to do a bit of research first.

Anyway my friend said my first entry was way too technical so will try and keep to the basics. There will however be some more information related to the more advanced digital single lens reflex(SLR) cameras and fast zoom/telephoto lenses in upcoming blog entries.

The 'prosumer' cameras look to be getting rapidly better and my thinking is that not only will the photo quality keep getting better, they will probably have good quality video recording options as well. Some of the 'prosumer' camera's can capture images which compete with the advanced digital SLR's for the majority of everyday photography and due to there compact size and convenience are great value.

Changing lenses around on the advanced digital SLR's is not for everyone as it creates more manipulation of the camera settings among other things. So really from what I have seen, the top end of the 'prosumer' cameras are producing images with quality that meets the advanced digital SLR's in many ways.

 

 

Direction of light effect.

 

The above shot was taken with the lens facing directly into the sun and as you can see the detail of the heads is lost. It does however give a silhouette effect which could be used to give a nicely outlined image of the subject.

 

This image is taken with sun directly behind the photographer.

When photographing sports action or nature, taking the sun's direction into account can be invaluable.

 

Nature Photography.